If you’re a Santa Fean, you tend to frequent the dining places that are oriented a bit more toward locals. It just kinda happens that way. So these are not the trendy spots or the touristy standby stuff, but rather the reliable, everyday places whose owners have figured out a formula for doing almost everything right, almost every time, for the people who will come back and look at them funny if they don’t. Without further ado:
CounterCulture
The name is actually somewhat descriptive of the place. CounterCulture is a very social, close-quarters kind of place where you almost invariably run into one or two people you know. It’s located in an spare metal building at the corner of Cerillos and Baca street. It and the food (and the quality of it) has not changed in 25 years. That’s a good thing. To order: I often go for the Cowboy Bowl, which is an always-yummy blend of black beans, both green and red chile, a flour tortilla the size of Montana, bacon, sour cream, and an egg (though I hold back one or two of those things). The French toast at CounterCulture is not to be trifled with either. The spring rolls are some of the best I’ve had, should you be there for lunch. Order the cinnamon rolls — made only on the weekends — at your own risk. They are notoriously good. 930 Baca Street No. 1. Website here.

La Choza
This brings up the broad and deep subject of New Mexican food, and I’ll avoid delving too deep into that. Suffice it to say that La Choza’s red chile is (in my opinion and by consensus) reliably among the best in town. The dishes are not (despite the now-heavy proportion of tourist traffic here) oriented toward Iowa farmers and wandering Oklahomans, but are aimed square at the local who won’t notice the chile unless it eats the finish off the table. La Choza is the real deal. However, it’s hard to get into, and Heather and I have therefore turned that into an art. For dinner, in general, you gotta go early. So skip lunch and get there at 4:30 when they open. If it makes you feel like your hair’s turning blue, deal with it. If you want to be sneaky, order something to pick up and park in one of the curb-service (really!) spots against the fence. To get in at lunch, go at 11:30 during shoulder season. During the high seasons, it ain’t happening. Things to get: the blue corn burritos, smothered in (extra) red, with garlic bread and (for me) vegetarian posóle on the side. The apple pie is insane. Respectable margaritas. La Choza is the sister restaurant of the Shed, which is now overrun. 905 Alarid Street. Website here.

Dolina
I was skeptical of Dolina when it first opened, if only because it took the place in a funky little building of another old favorite, Clafoutis, which moved across town and is now (woe unto me) in a strip center. Dolina’s menu is genuinely eclectic, with some eastern European dishes (which are quite good) and outstanding coffee and espresso drinks. But the real attraction at Dolina is the local vibe. As at Pasqual’s, there’s a community table, which is a great place to sit if you’re up for a lively conversation. Dolina’s pastries and bakery things are some of the best in town. To order? The green chile & cheese hash browns are de rigeur. The French toast is likely the best in town. Breakfast grains are great. And just try to escape the front door without getting something from the pastry case. Parking at Dolina is kindof an aspirational thing, so bring your patience and walk a little. 402 North Guadalupe. Website here.

Escondido
Our default “nice” restaurant is Escondido, the wonderful brainchild of Fenando Ruiz, who apparently whopped somebody or other’s can on some Cooking Network thing. Obviously, I pay close attention to that stuff. What does Escondido do right? Pretty much everything. The menu is inventive. The dishes are not New Mexican but have a Mexican tilt, with a mere wink to NM. The service is reliably prompt and courteous. If you’re up for a nice, original meal and a good bottle along with it, Escondido is your place. It’s off the beaten path, on Agua Fria, away from the hordes. To order: I love the vegetarian version of the Chile En Nogada (below). 1101 Paseo Corazon, Suite 100. Website here.

Cafecito
A relatively new arrival in town, situated in the Baca Railyard area, just around the block (for you old timers) from where Captain Marble used to be. Cafecito has a South American/Argentinian bent, but its home in a modern, crisp, clean glass, timber, corrugated metal and concrete building is something of a juxtaposition. Easy (for the most part) to get in to, Cafecito has become a reliably hip local gathering place. The empanadas are the real deal, and though they don’t have 20 different varieties, you’d have to try to fail if you order these. For breakfast or lunch, the panqueque con dulce de leche will likely result in your reaching a level of contentment you didn’t think you could hit. 922 Shoofly Street. Website here.

Another installment of the restaurant chronicles coming soon.





























